Transcript:

Um, so Rob’s question...

Rob’s message is about how auto ISO and shutter speed was playing so so again,

so let's go back into our camera right here…

I don't know where I stored it. The reason we do the auto ISO. One of

the things is In the heat of the moment,

we don't have a lot of time to adjust it so let's just described a scenario.

We are in a rocking boat in the Arctic, right?

And we're floating, small boat,

and then we suddenly saw polar bears coming up

and the light, backlit, and everything is very complicated.

The boat was rocking too. So you will not be

able to even find a point that is mid-tone

to do the spot metering (for full manual exposure) and all these things, and the light is changing

all the time as the sun is dropping.

So during those moments, we use (manual aperture, manual shutter speed) auto ISO,

but what we do is we take a few photos,

right and then we set +0.7 (EV) and then you don't stop there.

First of all, +0.7 eV is a reference.

Usually it works. However, sometimes it doesn't

and it depends on the camera (model),

so after you take a few photos testing the situation, you go into

your LCD, review the photo, look at the histogram

and for Bob (who has an Olympus mirrorless with electronic viewfinder), he doesn't need it

because he has the real time histogram. You look at the histogram of the photo

and see if you have pushed all the way to the right without blinkies.

So that's the criteria first and once you do that,

basically you have two dials in your camera.

Right? One dial is the aperture, the F

number, one dial is the shutter speed.

The aperture (button) you don't touch. You're always putting it into

the smallest number which means wide open right?

Because most of the time we are dealing with low light.

Anyways, I mean in nature, when do we have enough light? When we have enough lights,

it's (the light) too harsh. Right? So most of the time we are struggling with not enough light.

So you always set the f-stop as the the biggest aperture,

which is the smallest f-number and you don't touch that.

So what you have next is… so there are two dials.

One is the aperture. The other one is the shutter speed. This

one, if you have a 500mm f/4 you set it at

f/4.

If you have a 150-600 f/5.6-6.3,

when you are at 600mm

you set it at f/6.3 and then you don't touch it.

Basically you're forcing the camera to always be at that aperture

and the shutter speed is the key here

because all you need to do is just to change the shutter speed

and then you can see what is the ISO, for example the polar bear here.

We are shooting the polar bear fighting for Jane,

right? So at first for example at first you see a polar bear sleeping

right? And Robert is on the boat,

right? And then you have the dial of the shutter speed and set to…

oh this this polar bear is sleeping right very calm and all and you have a 500mm (lens) right?

So what shutter speed do you use, Robert? Sleeping is not moving,

right? assuming the boatis not rocking too much right? you can gamble at okay,

maybe I can do it at 1/500s

and then once you see that at 1/500s, the ISO is 3200

because the iso is automatic right

because it's auto ISO so is set at 3200 you just use your eye to glance at the ISO,

right, and then Robert was saying that Hmmm

ISO 3200. I have my 5D Mark IV for example,

and I know that ISO 1600 would have no noise. ISO 3200…

I don't know, maybe there will be a little bit of noise

and what if this moment of the polar bear sleeping is

so nice that I want to print it at 6 feet tall at home.

So I would want to push, to have the image quality the best, right?

So what do you do? Robert? Okay.

I'm going to gamble at instead of 1/500s

let me go into 1/250s and then take 20 photos.

So what you do is you just dial the the shutter speed from 500 to 250.

Just one click like this and take 20 photos,

right? And once you click the dial of from 1/500s to 1.250s, the ISO

is automatically changed from 3200 to 1600 right

because it's Auto right so basically click one button, take a bunch of photos,

the exposure will be the same but you get a photo with much less noise,

right? And then Robert would say, I'm a little bit crazy.

I actually want to have ISO 800, right?

So you just switch to 1/125s

and you take 100 photos to make sure that you have one that is sharp

because they're sleeping anyway,

so you can play with all these things to test,

and suddenly two polar bears came up and they started to fight,

right. So what do you? You dial it to 1/1600s

and then you have ISO maybe 5,000 or something,

but you want to freeze the fight,

right? So you have to use 1600 of a second. So you just like click from 500 to 800 to 1600.

I just two or three clicks, right just like this and then you are shooting.

So at the time you get 100 photos,

right? Some of them will have the lowest noise, beautiful portrait of the polar bears not moving

and then you can also get all the sharpest photos

Instead of all the motion blur and then shaking and everything.

So the beauty of the auto ISO is you can gamble

and get low noise images when you have the opportunity.

But when action comes you can quickly dial into the (proper) shutter speed to do that

and then after you take maybe a hundred photos of the fight of the polar bears

and then you said oh I remember Paul McKenzie mentioned about motion blur, right?

Why don't I just try like 1/60s

and then just kind of move around the camera

and then create this like oh like punishing and fighting with motion blur,

right and then you get 50 photos of those and maybe one of them you have the eyes sharp,

but then the paw is all blurry and out of focus right?

And then you create some really special arts.

Right? But of course you switch back into 1/1600s and say okay.

These are my insruance shot,

and those are the the sharp photos on that.

So that's really the thing to nail low

light photography along the whole thought process of different creativity,

right? So Rob that summarized what we have been talking about, right?